Can We Accurately Measure Melanin Levels in Skin?

For years, measuring melanin—the natural pigment that gives skin its colour—has been a challenge for scientists and dermatologists. But today, science has made an exciting breakthrough: a gentle, non-invasive way to accurately track melanin levels in all skin types, from the fairest to the deepest tones. 

This scientific breakthrough means it’s now possible to: 

• Develop personalised skincare products for hyperpigmentation or uneven tone 

• Spot pigmentation changes early for healthier skin long-term 

• Assess skin health risks more accurately 

It's a new era for skin science—one where we can finally measure what makes every tone radiant. 

THE DISTRIBUTION OF MELANIN IN SKIN DETERMINED IN VIVO 

Paul J Matts, Stephen D Cotton, Richard A Morse, Elie D Alguemide, Christopher J Cook, Maurice Moncrieff, Peter J Dykes, Ronan J O'Reilly, James Ferguson, Nilesh Shah, John A Parrish, Lesley E Rhodes, Christopher E M Griffiths 

BACKGROUND 

There is a growing need for objective, non-invasive techniques to measure melanin concentration in human skin without the influence of haemoglobin.  

Existing methods have limitations due to a lack of specificity and an inability to show the spatial distribution of these chromophores. 

OBJECTIVE 

To validate and calibrate the measurement of eumelanin in vivo using SIAscopic™ techniques, relating this with histologically and analytically determined eumelanin concentrations in nonsun-exposed skin from subjects of Fitzpatrick skin types I-VI. 

METHOD

This study involved observations on five subjects from each Fitzpatrick skin type (I-VI).  

Researchers used chromophore mapping via contact and non-contact SIAscopy, along with other non-invasive spectrophotometric methods.  

Measurements were taken on the inner upper arms, followed by two 4mm punch biopsies (one per arm) for histological and analytical melanin assessment. 

RESULTS

A significant correlation was found between contact and non-contact SIAscope-derived eumelanin values and actual eumelanin content in the skin.  

This correlation was consistent across all Fitzpatrick skin types. Notably, there was no correlation between SIAscope-derived eumelanin and haemoglobin values, indicating a clear separation of the two chromophores. 

CONCLUSION

This study confirms that both contact and noncontact SIAscope chromophore mapping techniques provide robust and accurate measures of eumelanin levels in vivo.  

The key learning for consumers is that melanin levels can now be measured non-invasively and accurately, which could be beneficial for a range of applications, such as monitoring skin pigmentation changes, assessing the risk of skin cancer, and developing personalised skincare products. 

Click here to read the full study >  

CONFLICT OF INTEREST STATEMENT 

Paul J Matts is employed by Procter & Gamble.